Trek from Landmannalaugar to Thorsmörk

An early departure takes us towards the famous Landmannalaugar region, in the heart of the Icelandic highlands. We travel along the Dómadalur road, skirting the slopes of the Hekla volcano, one of Iceland's most active. Gradually, the landscape transforms: lava fields, black sand deserts, glacial rivers… and a few river crossings that our bus navigates with ease.

We reach Landmannalaugar in the late morning. It's time to put on our hiking boots and get to know the group, assessing everyone's pace and fitness level. Depending on our preferences, we have two superb options: explore the Ljótipollur crater, whose glowing red walls contrast with the turquoise waters of its lake, or climb Bláhnúkur, the "blue mountain," for a breathtaking panorama of the surrounding multicolored rhyolites.

At the end of the day, we enjoyed a well-deserved swim in the hot river of Landmannalaugar, a unique moment amidst these volcanic landscapes.

After our first night in a tent, we dedicated the entire day to exploring Landmannalaugar and its fascinating volcanic landscapes. We began by walking along the Graenagil Gorge, before reaching the vast Laugahraun lava field, where black obsidian sparkles.

The trail winds its way gradually to the first sulfurous fumaroles rising from the ground, a reminder that we are walking on land still active. Today's objective is the ascent of Brennisteinsalda, nicknamed the "sulfur wave," whose slopes blend hues of ochre, red, green, and black. From the summit, perched at 855 meters, a 360° panorama unfolds before us: lava fields stretching as far as the eye can see, multicolored rhyolite mountains, black sand deserts… a truly magnificent sight.

We then begin our descent before climbing onto the Sudurnámur ridges, which reveal striking new perspectives of the region. We return to camp at the end of the day, our heads full of spectacular images.

Today marks the start of our trek through the Icelandic highlands! We begin the day with a gradual ascent through the stunning rhyolite formations that lead us to the high plateau of Hrafntinnusker, nestled in the center of a vast volcanic caldera. Here, the landscape is simply surreal: an endless palette of pastel colors stretches as far as the eye can see.

We are walking in the middle of one of the most active geothermal zones on the planet: everywhere, fumaroles rise, mud pools bubble, and obsidian fields sparkle in the light.

Leaving the caldera, we descend southwards and progress through a series of small valleys hidden at the foot of the Tindfjöll glacier. Sometimes, from the ridges, the imposing ice cap of Mýrdalsjökull is revealed, a gigantic ice dome resting on a black desert.

After this day full of contrasts and magnificent panoramas, we finally reach the peaceful shores of Lake Alftavatn, where we spend the night in a tent next to the refuge.

We leave the tranquil shores of Lake Alftavatn to plunge into the mineral world of the Emstrur Desert. Here, the earth turns black, almost lunar, shaped by volcanic ash and past eruptions. In the middle of this dark immensity rise majestic conical mountains entirely covered in green.

The trail winds through this stark landscape and, in places, it encounters wide glacial rivers. There's no way around it: they must be crossed on foot. It's one of those moments when group cohesion truly comes into its own. We put on our water shoes, help each other, laugh, shiver… and move forward together. These intense and exhilarating river crossings are among the trek's most memorable moments.

After skirting the volcanic cone of Hattafell, the massive silhouette of the Mýrdalsjökull glacier finally appears on the horizon, towering like an ice giant above the black desert. We reach our campsite at the end of the day.

As every morning, it's time to repack our bags and load the trailer of Klemenz, our Icelandic logistics expert, before heading back out onto the trails. Today, we leave the black desert of Emstrur to discover a radically different landscape.

Just a short walk from the refuge, the impressive Markarfljót canyon opens up, its torrent roaring 200 meters below. The path follows this spectacular gorge for a while, adorned with basalt columns that rise like immense organ pipes sculpted by the volcano.

Continuing due south, we reach Þórsmörk, the final stop on our trek, and the landscape gradually transforms. The black rock and lava fields give way to verdant slopes, gentle valleys, and panoramas reminiscent of a miniature alpine cirque. Finally, we enter the Þórsmörk Valley, “Thor’s Woods,” a true haven of greenery nestled at the foot of the Krossá River, where nature seems to have reclaimed its rights and offers a well-deserved moment of tranquility. The day concludes with a final night in our tents.

It is in the heart of the surreal landscape of Þórsmörk, the “Thor’s Wood”, that we conclude this magnificent hiking adventure. Between the black canyons veined with fluorescent green, the volcanic tuff formations sculpted by the wind and sea spray, the steel-colored rivers and the sparkling ice cap of Mýrdalsjökull, our eyes feast one last time on breathtaking panoramas.

But it's time to pack up our bags and equipment, load the bus, and head back to civilization. We arrive back in Reykjavík in the early evening, our hearts full of memories and our heads still filled with the magic of the Icelandic highlands.

Last moments in Iceland before the transfer to Keflavik International Airport.

Flight back to France, head full of images and memories.