Troll Peninsula: Snowshoeing and the Northern Lights

An early start towards the wild north of Iceland, heading for the Tröllaskagi peninsula. The drive is long today, but spectacular: it skirts the Esja massif, passes through the tunnel under Hvalfjörður fjord, nicknamed "the whale fjord," then branches off towards an ancient volcanic crater. A land of ice and fire, Iceland is already revealing all its magic.

As we approach our destination, it's time to put on our snowshoes for our first hike. This introductory outing allows everyone to get their bearings, because here, marked trails are rare: Iceland is best discovered off the beaten track.

Our destination for the day: the Gvendarskál plateau. The starting point is near a charming church, an episcopal seat founded in 1106. The trail winds through a sparse forest before climbing the slopes of a stunning natural terrace. Between the wind-sculpted shapes, sastrugi (rock formations), and ice formations, this first glimpse promises unforgettable moments.

After the hike, we'll continue our journey to Ólafsfjörður, a small village nestled in the mountains. We'll settle into our accommodation for the next five nights.

Set off for a magnificent day between sea and mountains! Just a few kilometers from the picturesque fishing village of Siglufjörður, the Manardalur valley stretches out in silence, offering breathtaking scenery. The route begins with a gentle climb due south, following a wild valley before turning left. Gradually, the trail gains altitude towards the Dalaskard pass, before reaching the ridges, which we will follow north to the summit of Hafnarhyrna, perched at 687 meters.

Throughout the ascent, the panoramas are breathtaking: the Icelandic sea of ​​steel contrasts with the immaculate whiteness of the surrounding peaks, in an almost unreal atmosphere.

As night falls, with our eyes turned towards the sky… If the weather is on our side, we could witness an unforgettable spectacle: the Northern Lights dancing slowly above the mountains, illuminating the Arctic night with their colorful veils.

After a short transfer by vehicle, the adventure resumes… directly on the beach! With snowshoes on our feet, we set off towards the spectacular peninsula of Þórðarhöfði, a mountainous promontory jutting proudly into the Skagafjörður fjord.

This striking landscape, sculpted by the combined forces of fire, ice, wind, and sea spray, exudes an intense Nordic atmosphere. The hiking trail winds between steep cliffs, gentle slopes, and sea views, with only the piercing cries of seabirds for company: northern fulmars, great skuas, and guillemots soar gracefully through the skies.

After this immersion in the Arctic cold, it's time for some comfort! Next to our accommodation, the Ólafsfjörður geothermal pool beckons. Enveloped by the soothing warmth of its pools, it's the perfect moment to relax our muscles, contemplate the surrounding mountains… and perhaps exchange a few words with the locals.

Heading south this morning, we boarded a small boat bound for the tranquil island of Hrísey, an isolated gem in the heart of Eyjafjörður. Beneath our snowshoes, a thick blanket of snow, and beneath the snow… a basalt base 11 million years old. This strip of land, 7.5 km long and 2.5 km wide, seems frozen in time, between sky and sea. Our hike followed its coastal paths, from the small hamlet in the south to the lighthouse standing at its northernmost point, its modest but symbolic summit reaching 110 m. A beautiful loop at nature's gentle pace.

On the return journey, a stop in the fishing village of Dalvik for dinner at the cozy Bakkabraedra café. This is an opportunity to taste a local specialty: Kjötsúppa, a lamb and vegetable soup, or its variant, Fiskisúppa.

Finally, as every evening, we scan the sky… A clear window and solar activity on the agenda, and perhaps we are under the undulating magic of the Northern Lights.

Today, we're off to explore a still relatively unknown place: the mysterious Héðinsfjörður fjord. A setting both magnificent and silent, like something out of an old Arctic expedition story… or an Icelandic thriller. Our route follows a long frozen lake, which we'll be able to cross if the ice is thick enough. This will be an opportunity for a short group workshop: how to safely test the solidity of a frozen lake?

With a bit of luck, we might spot some curious seals at the entrance to the fjord, adding a wild touch to this extraordinary day.

Back at the accommodation, it's time to relax: the hot tubs, set up on a terrace facing the mountains, are waiting for us. And if the sky clears… what better way to contemplate the Northern Lights than with your feet in the warm water, your eyes on the stars?

Did you know that the Vikings believed these celestial veils were a reflection of the Valkyries' armor? An invitation to dream, to dare to go outside, and to look up.

An early departure from Ólafsfjörður, following the spectacular North Coast Road. Eventually, it will be necessary to leave the rugged mountains of the Trölls Peninsula and head towards the Icelandic capital, Reykjavik.

The afternoon is free: the perfect opportunity to stroll through the lively streets of the city center, visit one of the many museums, or explore the famous Laugavegur shopping street with its boutiques and cozy cafes. Why not treat yourself to a locally knitted Icelandic wool sweater as a souvenir of your trip?

Last moments in Iceland before the transfer to Keflavik International Airport.

One last look at these landscapes… but it’s only goodbye for now! Why not come back in the summer, when the highlands open up and the sun hardly ever sets?

Return flight to France.