Trek from the Andes to the Yungas via el Choro

After a hearty breakfast, we meet the muleteer team with whom we will spend the next eight days, as well as our guide. A few stretches or warm-up exercises to get our legs ready, adjusting our trekking poles, and we're off on an epic trek : a crossing from the Andes to the warm tropical valleys of the Yungas.

A beautiful day dawns as we walk along the Tuni Lagoon. The mules lead the way, and we make our way over scree slopes and narrow paths clinging to the mountainside. A gentle climb takes us to a pass at 4880 meters. We draw closer to the glaciers and the heart of the Cordillera Real, encountering llamas and alpacas along the way, like a line of supporters cheering us on.

We then descend the mountainside to Laguna Jurikhota , where we set up camp.

We saw the impressive Condoriri massif and in particular the summit of the "Condor's Head" (5648 m), which

with its two adjacent peaks, and a little imagination, it forms a condor with folded wings.

We spend the night on the edge of the lagoon , far from any light pollution, ideal for observing the starry sky.

Today, the changes in elevation and altitude are noticeable. We follow the Jurikhota lagoon along its entire length before starting a slightly more arduous climb that will take us to the small Congelada lagoon (two glaciers literally fall into its frozen waters), a jewel nestled at 4900 meters altitude, at the foot of Condoriri (5650 m.).

We reach a pass, the Chakoti Pass (5160 m), from where we can decide to continue the climb to Pico Austria (5300 m). Up there, the panorama is splendid and the effort is well worth it! From the summit, we can admire a large part of the Andes Mountains, Lake Titicaca, and if the sky is clear, we might even see, in the distance, the summit of Sajama, the highest peak in Bolivia, reaching 6542 m.

The descent path is a bit steep, and to reach Laguna Chiarkhota, we will have to take a steep and rocky path made of broken slate.

The program includes two successive passes : the Jallayko pass at 5025 meters altitude and the Jistaña pass at 4930 m. After crossing them, we begin a long descent towards the Liviñosa lagoon (4270 m.).

As we descend, we catch sight of the imposing Huayna Potosí, towering at 6,088 meters, which majestically overlooks the valley we are entering. The view of this iconic peak adds a spectacular dimension to our hike, reminding us of the grandeur and beauty of the Andes Mountains.

The descent continues through increasingly deep and narrow valleys. The vegetation becomes denser and the air warmer as we approach Botijlaca (3830 m, about a 2-hour walk), a hamlet with a temperate climate. The tropical heat and vegetation are still far off, but the mist in the distance hints at a change in ecosystem and temperature.

Botijlaca is anything but charming; it's a hydroelectric power station. It supplies most of the cities of La Paz and El Alto. So we move on and begin a 3- to 4-hour climb along a track on the slopes of Tiquimani (5,519 m), whose name in Aymara means "the eternal guardian." Tiquimani, an amalgam of rock and ice with an impressively vertical face, is a respected mountain of great technical difficulty; a formidable challenge that few mountaineers have dared to attempt.

We cross a pass at 4600 meters altitude before descending for about 3 hours into the Uma Palka valley (3800 m.), our stop for the night.

The coca tea break upon arrival, the sacred and traditional drink, very good against altitude sickness, is always a special moment. We sit down, tired, with heavy legs, with a hot drink in our hands.

Today, we hiked along the slopes of Cerro Mathilde (5000 m altitude) for about 2 hours before gaining altitude to reach Laguna Chiar Khota (4370 m altitude). The view is superb.

We then pass a second lake located at 4560m before tackling the final steep climb that will take us to the pass at 4635m. We then descend (2.5 to 3 hours) into the endless Zanja Pampa valley, crossing a few small streams and some ruins along the way before setting up camp for the night.

We are now very close to the Yungas and its verdant mountain valleys. We relive the images of the day and familiarize ourselves with our new surroundings for the evening. The excitement of what awaits us tomorrow is building, even though before that, we dream of our sleeping bags and a hot water bottle.

The hike continues along the mountainside for about an hour before reaching Khota Kuchu Laguna. This is the last viewpoint before descending along a rocky path to the hamlet of Chukura. We might encounter flocks of sheep heading up to the high pastures as we join the pre-Columbian Choro trek.

The Choro River, approximately 70 km long, originates in the Andean peaks at an altitude of around 4700 m, crosses various ecological zones, and ends its journey in the subtropical Yungas region at 1300 m!

This is one of the most popular and best-preserved hiking trails, and it forms an integral part of the Qhapaq Ñan, the complex network of pre-Inca and Inca roads that the Incas unified and developed during the 15th century. These roads served as a link between the Andean highlands and the subtropical Yungas region. Primarily used for trade, they facilitated the exchange of exotic resources—fruits and vegetables, of course, but also coca, a plant essential in many rituals and spiritual events—for woolen cloth, salt, quinoa, llama meat, and other goods.

From Chukura, we continue the descent following the paved path towards the village of Challapampa. We cross the Cotapata National Park and Integrated Natural Management Area.

Probably awakened at dawn by the many bird species that inhabit the area, we set off again. We quickly reach the long suspension bridge that spans the Rio Chucura. A series of gentle ascents and descents leads us to the village of San Francisco. There, we take a short break before continuing our journey.

Next, we cross the Coscapa River and begin the "Devil's Ascent," a steep and demanding trail. After sustained effort, we reach the village of Sandillani at the end of the day, located at an altitude of 2000 meters.

In Sandillani, we settle in for the night, enjoying the fresh air and magnificent views offered by this region.

Today 's hike will be short. We begin a 5 km descent, this time on a rocky but easily passable path, to reach the hamlet of Chairo. Along the way, we pass some ruins and, with a bit of luck, some curious monkeys will come to greet us from the treetops.

The river is getting louder and louder, and soon we arrive at Chairo. We are now in the hot Yungas region, at an altitude of approximately 1380 meters!

End of the trek, well done! Now we can rest!

We travel by private transport to the haven of peace of Coroico, a small Yungena locality and the main local tourist destination for paceños , who like to escape from La Paz and come to enjoy some warmth for a while.

Allow approximately 50 minutes of driving time, initially on a rather chaotic dirt track, before reaching the asphalt section.

This morning, we set off for the "Cafetal" in San Felix, 4.5 km from Coroico, on the road to the Cascades. Upon arrival, we are greeted by Mauro, who takes us on a tour of the property. It's a family-run coffee plantation and processing center, where we'll discover all the stages of coffee production, from the hand-harvesting and meticulous selection of the beans to the cup we're served. We're intoxicated by the rich aroma of the roasted beans and savor their flavors...

The Yungas region is renowned for its quality coffee, and production remains family-run on small plots. However, it faces competition from coca cultivation, historically important in the region and which has expanded considerably over the years.

After this visit, how about a short walk and why not, for the more adventurous, a swim in the waterfalls?

A country-style meal awaits us on the terrace, back at the cafetal.

From Coroico, we resume our journey towards the city of La Paz.