The Way of St. James (from Lyon to Le Puy-en-Velay)

Starting from St. Nizier Cathedral, after crossing the Saône River, you'll reach the Saint Jean district and its cathedral. The warm-up begins here with the climb up the Gourguillon, a favorite among Lyonnais. You'll pass near Fort St. Irénée, heading towards Sainte-Foy-lès-Lyon, Beaunant, and Chaponost. Although urban, the route follows quiet country roads. You'll encounter several aqueducts, remnants of the water supply system that brought water from the Pilat Massif to Lugdunum (Lyon) during the Gallo-Roman period. The Garon Valley offers a bucolic respite just before Soucieu-en-Jarrest. Beautiful houses and landscapes of meadows, fields, and orchards accompany you to Thurins, your next stop (or to Soucieu-en-Jarrest, 5 km away, 1 hour 15 minutes), at the foot of the Monts du Lyonnais.

You'll find this section of the route through the Monts du Lyonnais very pleasant, with its gentle ascents and descents. From now on, paths and trails predominate. Your stage begins with a slow climb, passing near the villages of Rontalon and the aptly named St Martin en Haut. Your highest point, at 814 meters, marks the watershed between the Mediterranean and the Atlantic. The waters now flow towards the Loire. You manage to St Symphorien sur Coise, formerly a medieval fortified town. This will be your stop for the day, dominated by its imposing Gothic-style fortified church.

The stage is short, so we recommend spending a good part of the morning exploring the village of Saint Symphorien sur Coise. You'll leave the Monts du Lyonnais and enter the Loire region. The presence of numerous watermills on the Coise River testifies to the economy and development of the villages since Gallo-Roman times. You'll pass near Chazelles-sur-Lyon, the home of the hat. Here, Saint James is said to have invented the felt-making technique that brought wealth to the town. Today's stage offers beautiful views of the nearby Forez plain. You'll arrive in Saint-Galmier. Here again, water has shaped the landscapes and the economy since Roman times, and then in the Middle Ages. The Badoit spring is now the best-selling bottled water in France. Enjoy it to your heart's content!

The path leads you into the Forez plain where you cross the Loire River at Rivas, a leisurely stroll (via the bridge!). No doubt you'll spare a thought for the medieval pilgrims who had to cross it in perilous conditions, taking long detours, relying on ferrymen, or even drowning. You arrive at St. Romain le Puy, where you'll be under the protection of St. James, like all the pilgrims who have admired the small 10th-century chapel perched atop its volcanic outcrop. As the stage is flat, we encourage you to climb the 90 meters to reach the summit of the Puy, offering a beautiful view over the entire plain, past stages, and future stages. The stage ends in St. Romain le Puy, but you'll be staying in Montbrison, which you can reach by train (7 minutes – €2.40 payable locally).

You leave directly from Montbrison following the path that comes from Cluny.

At St Georges-Haute-Ville, you rejoin the Lyon route. You will gradually begin the ascent into the Monts du Forez. The countryside is verdant and the villages are beautiful. Like the pilgrims who came from Cluny to the Romanesque chapel of Monsupt (13th century), take the time to contemplate the Forez plain. Your path leads you across the bridge spanning the Mare (don't worry, small protective crosses are engraved on its parapets) and you arrive at Saint Jean Soleymieux and its 11th-century crypt. You reach your destination in Marols, burned down by the turbulent Baron des Adrets in 1562. This charming little village has since regained its tranquility, and many artists and craftspeople exhibit their work.

You'll follow a beautiful path through the forest and reach the highest point of your route at 1165 meters. At Montarcher, a former stronghold belonging to the Counts of Forez, you can admire the panoramic views. Just beyond, the route leaves the ancient Via Bolena, which, since the time of the Celts and Romans, has connected Lyon to Aquitaine. You'll now take the GR765 East (shared with the GR3), following the peaceful course of the Andrable River, and arrive at Leignecq, a hilltop village with a long history of fortifications. From Montarcher, it's also possible to follow the GR765 West (see the "Variant" below).

It is important to leave early for this long and hilly stage. Your accommodation provider can take you to Valprivas to shorten the journey (-10 km, -2 hours 30 minutes, transfer at your own expense to be paid locally). You reach Valprivas and its castle. You then leave the gentle hills of the Monts du Forez to descend and cross the Andrable River. This stream marks the boundary of the Forez region, and today you enter the Haute-Loire department. The landscapes change, the terrain becomes steeper: a good climb up the other bank leads to Châles before plunging back into the Ance Valley. The final ascent takes you to Sarlanges before arriving in Retournac, in the heart of the Loire Gorges. A visit to the Lace Museum is a must. Accommodation is available in Jussac (4 km, 1 hour).

Your path meanders like the Loire River, which has carved its course through this volcanic terrain. In the heart of this natural landscape, your journey will lead you to picturesque villages like Chamalières (with its magnificent 12th-century church) and the remains of fortresses overlooking the Loire. The most remarkable are those of Artias (12th century) and Roche-en-Régnier. You can stop in Vorey-sur-Arzon, on the banks of the Loire, or in Saint-Vincent (+6 km, +1 hour 30 minutes). If you are staying in Saint-Vincent, you can shorten your day by taking the train from Retournac to Chamalières or from Vorey-sur-Arzon to Saint-Vincent.

You finish with another long stage. You can shorten it by taking the train from Vorey-sur-Arzon to Lavoûte-sur-Loire (-11 km, -2 hours 30 minutes). In Lavoûte-sur-Loire, the path rejoins the river, which forms a magnificent loop. Within this loop, the Château de Lavoûte-Polignac stands on its rocky promontory. The route then crosses the Emblavez basin, covered with fields, meadows, and hamlets, and reaches the spectacular Château de Polignac (that family again), perched on its rocky outcrop. The last section of the path leads to Le Puy-en-Velay, the "City of the Virgin," and the starting point of the Via Podiensis. A visit is a must, with its historic quarter and cathedral at its heart, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The trip ends in the late afternoon.