Objective Landmannalaugar: pulka skiing in Iceland

After a good breakfast, we finalize the last preparations, including loading the pulkas. Pulkas are expedition sleds in which we carry all the necessary equipment for the week. Each of us pulls one behind us, adding constant effort with every step—extra weight, certainly, but essential for our self-sufficiency and survival.

Then comes the moment to venture into the interior of the island, in an all-terrain vehicle, towards the far reaches of the country.

The road ends. Literally. No further by motorized transport is possible: we are now among the privileged few able to set foot on these isolated lands at this time of year. This is where the expedition truly begins. Nordic skis on our feet, pulka in tow… the awe-inspiring silence of the Icelandic plateaus envelops us.

Our goal: to reach Landmannalaugar, a geothermal oasis surrounded by multicolored mountains.

The scenery is surreal: a white sea dotted with blocks of black lava, sculpted by the winds and the cold. The guide traces the route, reading the snow like a living map.

This first day is also our introduction to Nordic skiing: hesitant movements, inevitable falls, shared bursts of laughter. Everyone discovers the raw pleasure of moving forward on untouched snow, carried by the spirit of a unique adventure.

At the end of the day, the first bivouac. Finding the ideal spot, setting up the tents, organizing the pulkas, melting snow for cooking.

First night in a tent, in the absolute silence of an icy desert.

At dawn, a routine takes hold: breakfast, tidying up camp, loading the pulkas. The rhythm of the expedition imposes itself in the heart of a mineral and white world.

The journey continues between conical craters, fields of black ash and tortured reliefs. The wind shapes the sastrugis, these waves of snow sculpted by the gusts, which we are learning to read.

As the hours pass, the landscape subtly changes. Perhaps we'll reach Landmannalaugar tonight. If not, it will be tomorrow… as with any expedition, nature dictates the pace.

Tonight, we're watching the sky. If the clouds part and the solar activity is there, a magical spectacle could unfold before us: the Northern Lights.

In Iceland, some see them as mythical creatures, others as the souls of ancestors. We, however, gaze at them in wonder, aware of the rare privilege we are experiencing.

Mission accomplished: here we are finally in the heart of the Icelandic highlands, in the spectacular setting of Landmannalaugar.

Depending on the weather conditions, we set up camp for one or two nights near the refuge and the famous hot spring, a stone's throw from our base camp.

These days offer a rare opportunity to explore the surroundings without a pulka, light and free, to fully savor the magic of the place.

At every turn, the landscape unveils new treasures of raw, wild, almost unreal beauty. Perhaps we will contemplate the glowing red reflections of the Ljótipollur crater, walk along the jagged ridges of Sudurnámur, or venture into the steaming gorges and bubbling potholes of Vondugil. The glacial valley of Jökuldalur and the mineral canyon of Grænagil also offer breathtaking panoramas, where nature seems never to have been tamed.

Every corner reveals a raw, sometimes harsh, always captivating nature. Here, the silence is punctuated only by the whispers of the earth. You walk through a legendary landscape, shaped by fire and ice.

As evening falls, the bivouac routine transforms into a cozy cocoon: returning to your tent, snuggling into your sleeping bag, sharing a hot meal. And above all… enjoying a bath in the hot spring, enveloped in steam, while snow sometimes falls gently around you. A suspended, surreal moment, blending well-being, connection, and gratitude.

Day breaks, the camp is quickly dismantled: everyone knows their role, the routines are in place.

In their minds, the laughter in the hot spring, the northern lights of the previous day, or simply the powerful calm of the landscape still linger.

Today, we're heading towards the frozen lake of Frostastaðavatn, a frozen mirror at the foot of the mountains.

The contrast between the immaculate whiteness of the snow and the unexpected warmth of the volcanic soil gives these days a strange, almost mystical atmosphere.

Here, the weather reigns supreme, and is often capricious. The wind, our worst enemy, sometimes arrives violently, whipping up snow squalls and intensifying the biting cold.

In these highlands devoid of vegetation, nothing protects us: every gust of wind hits us to the bone. We must remain vigilant, know how to take shelter quickly, and dig holes in the snow to pitch our tents out of the wind.

Every action counts. At each break, we check our equipment and change into warmer, dry layers. The slightest oversight can be costly.

Here, it's man facing the elements. Brutal, grandiose, essential.

As the days went by, the pulkas got lighter, but fatigue set in. The muscles worked differently, strained in areas unaccustomed to effort; it must be said that few of us pull pulkas in our daily lives!

We just need to stay on course to reach the vehicle.

Then, slowly, the purr of the engine takes over, initiating a smooth transition to civilization.

Back in Reykjavik, it's time to pack up the equipment, unpack... but above all, to enjoy the simple pleasure of finding real comfort: a hot shower, a soft bed, a good meal in town.

After this timeless interlude, everyday life takes on a different flavor. You never look at a bathroom the same way again…

Note: Due to unpredictable weather conditions, progress cannot be anticipated or guaranteed. For safety reasons, the return to Reykjavik may be brought forward or delayed.

This "buffer" day is an integral part of the spirit of expeditions to the Far North: it allows one to adapt to possible unforeseen events (weather, terrain, etc.), while offering a nice transition between adventure and the return to daily life.

It's also an opportunity to discover Reykjavik in a different way: strolling through the lively streets, visiting museums like the impressive Perlan, exploring local shops…

Or perhaps you'd prefer a typically Icelandic experience: a whale watching cruise? A geothermal pool frequented by locals? Or even a relaxing break at the Blue Lagoon or the Sky Lagoon?

A day to breathe, savor the still-burning memories, and immerse one last time in this unique atmosphere before the big return.

Last moments in Iceland before the transfer to Keflavik International Airport.

One last look at these landscapes shaped by the elements… but it’s only goodbye for now! Why not come back in summer, when the highlands open up and the sun hardly ever sets?