The Great Crossing of the Haute-Loire by Mountain Bike

The meeting point is in Le Puy-en-Velay, at the foot of the upper town and the Rocher Saint-Michel d'Aiguilhe, to leave the Le Puy basin and cross the first ridges. With a well-deserved break at the Beaume waterfall, the spectacle is just beginning... We take the famous Way of St. James (Camino de Santiago), but by bike, to Lac du Bouchet in Bouchet-Saint-Nicolas. The tranquility of this crater lake is soothing. Fortunately, the first Respirando accommodation is nearby, beckoning us... Everything has been designed for mountain bikers and hikers. We can truly relax until the next morning.

The Allier Gorges await us. We'll pass through the Devès mountains, following the Allier River: Saint-Jean-Lachalm, Saint-Privat-d'Allier, Saint-Bérain, Prades, the beautiful Chanteuges with its Romanesque priory, the stunning chapel of Sainte-Marie-des-Chazes nestled in its verdant setting, Langeac... Around us, the riches are both natural and historical. Tonight, we'll sleep in Langeac.

A new day begins, with water as our constant companion. On both the left and right banks of the Allier River, villages cling to the hillsides. The scenery is breathtaking. In Brioude, we stop at the Saturday morning market and discover the imposing Saint-Julien Basilica.

We hop back on our bikes and head towards the Allagnon Gorges. The next highlight: the medieval village of Blesle, one of the most beautiful villages in France, with its 9th-century Benedictine abbey, cobbled streets, and half-timbered houses, unique in the Haute-Loire region. Then comes Léotoing and its 13th-century fortress overlooking the valley. The hardest part is over. Just 6 km to go to reach Lempdes-sur-Allagnon, the final stop on this leg of the journey.

The days go by, but no two are ever the same. We leave the banks of the Allagnon River to climb the high plateau of La Chaise-Dieu. There, we discover Auzon, a charming small town with a medieval feel. Then, we put our legs to the test to reach Champagnac-le-Vieux. The climb is tough! Fortunately, our efforts are rewarded upon arrival, with the Blue Flag lake of Champagnac-le-Vieux before us like an oasis. Perfect for a quick dip between pedal strokes. Tonight, we'll sleep in La Chaise-Dieu, famous for its abbey and classical music festival.

The landscape is wooded, ideal for riding in the cool of the morning. We pass through Craponne-sur-Arzon, in the Monts du Forez. Then the landscape finally opens up. The forest becomes less and less dense, and the viewpoints multiply. This is also where we'll spend the night, at La Ferme de mes Parents (My Parents' Farm).

We cross the small Himalayan footbridge at the Respirando rest area in Aurec-sur-Loire. A variety of leisure activities are available: kayaking, canoeing, stand-up paddleboarding, electric boats, a fitness area, a playground, and a swimming area... But there's no time to have fun. The hardest part is yet to come. The uphill climbs come one after another... We go up, we go down, we climb again. And to think this is just a warm-up before the rest of the crossing, which promises to be even more technical.

After a short detour along the relaxing Via Fluvia cycle route and its many Respirando and Accueil Vélo accommodations, it's time to resume our Great Crossing of the Haute-Loire. Early in the morning, we greet the pilgrims embarking on the Camino de Santiago from Geneva to Le Puy. A quick look at the Cistercian site and the chapel of the former Clavas Abbey in Riotord. And that's where we'll spend the night.

We muster our courage because a magnificent climb awaits us: the ascent of Grand Felletin (1387 m). Up there, the panorama is breathtaking! After the exertion, we can reward ourselves with a visit to the most gourmet village in France: Saint-Bonnet-le-Froid, where it's hard to resist the call of the stomach. A little further on, the beach at Lavalette lake invites us to relax (and digest)... Tence is only 15 km away, so let's make the most of it!

The departure is early because the day promises to be technical and mountainous. We overtake the Velay Express, already speeding along its tracks. Not even time for a stop in Chambon-sur-Lignon. The morning's objective? To reach the summit of Lizieux (1386 m). The trails are steep, winding between woods and scree slopes. Near Saint-Julien Chapteuil, the volcanic landscape is magnificent. The volcanic peaks of the Meygal are approaching...

The journey is drawing to a close, but these final stages remind us that in "Haute-Loire," there's "Haute." What a pleasure it is to spend the day among these ancient volcanoes! Volcanic rocks line our paths. We skirt Lake Saint-Front and its Quebecois autumnal atmosphere. The route leads us to Mont Mézenc (1753 m), the highest point in the department. The last few pedal strokes of the day: we arrive in the village of Les Estables. To celebrate, we give in to the temptation of an Ouroboros beer, a local brew with a strong character.

The last day already! Our legs are aching, but our eyes are especially full of wonder. The experience is unique. The final stretch (or almost) of 66 km before Le Puy-en-Velay, which marks the end of the journey. From the highest point in the Haute-Loire, we descend the slopes of the Jeune Loire to reach the gates of Le Puy. Back to square one. The loop is complete and the goal achieved. This Great Crossing is one we won't soon forget.

Our services end after breakfast.