Hiking in the north of Santo Antão Island

An early start for the ferry crossing from São Vicente to Santo Antão, the most mountainous island in the archipelago. After an hour's journey, we arrive in Porto Novo. We then take a shared taxi (aluguer) along the Corda (main road) to reach the Cova crater , the starting point of our hike. Among pine and eucalyptus trees, we skirt this depression, situated at 1300 meters altitude, a testament to the island's volcanic past. The crater's interior is a magnificent patchwork of cultivated fields. The precious clouds that bring coolness and humidity to the Paul Valley cling to the hillsides. We then descend the 77 switchbacks of the beautiful stone mule track to reach the small farming village of Cha De Manuel Dos Santos, in the heart of the valley. As we progress, we emerge from the fog, and the panoramic view over the entire valley is superb.

This hike, which takes us through breathtaking landscapes to discover the Paul Valley, is truly enchanting. We walk along cultivated terraces before having lunch at Sandra's, where we enjoy an unobstructed view of the distant ocean. We discover an ingenious, mountainous, and rural world of terraces and their man-made irrigation channels. We hike to Boca de Figueiras , where we meet the locals and experience rural Cape Verdean life. In the late afternoon, we settle into a small family-run guesthouse in Vila das Pombas , on the oceanfront, in the heart of a remote village lulled by the sound of the waves.

From Paul, we set off by minibus to Sinagoga , a small, colorful village, and then on to Lombo Branco, "the white shoulder," named for the white stone called pozzolana, visible as an outcrop on the mountain. Our hike begins in Pinhão and passes through small , remote villages , across terraced fields, with the ocean as a backdrop . Here, a few specimens of a very old tree called the dragon tree still remain. Upon arriving in Ribeira Grande, we take the opportunity to explore the town, depending on the schedule, before being driven to Punta do Sol, on the coast, where we spend the night.

This morning in Ponta do Sol, we might have the chance to see the fishermen returning from the open sea, bustling with activity as they sell the fruits of their labor. Then begins an impressive coastal hike. We reach the village of Fontainhas via a mule track clinging to the hillside, which, around a bend, offers us a breathtaking view of this colorful village perched high in this remote valley! We cross a pass at 200 meters altitude where a dike, a vein of basalt rock, juts out. We descend into the winding paved path towards the sea, which leads us to the small village of Corvo, then on to Forminguinhas where we have lunch overlooking the ocean ! The path meanders between cliffs and the sea, its landscape sculpted by the wind. At the end of the day, we reach Cruzinha da Garça, a small fishing port, and then Cha de Igreja , a charming little village slightly inland.

Today, we hike inland, leaving the ocean behind. We ascend the Motcho Valley through a more arid landscape and continue to the Ladeira da Garça pass, at an altitude of 700 meters. We walk to the town of Coculi, nestled in an agricultural valley, where we spend the night.

To end on a high note, we embark on a hike to "Lin de Corv" towards the Lagoa and Cova plateaus , along a trail overlooking the valley. We walk from one rum distillery to another, where opportunities to taste excellent rum abound. As we approach the plateau, the landscape softens and the peaks of the island's west coast come into view. We enjoy one last time the breathtaking panorama of the sea, the peaks, mountain streams, and the dramatic vineyards.

After the hike, we'll travel by vehicle to the island's ridges, where the Cova crater opens up, followed by Porto Novo. Depending on the time of day, a safe swim nearby may be possible at the beach. The ferry will then take us back to Mindelo . The evening and dinner are free in Mindelo to enjoy the city's festive and musical atmosphere.

We enjoyed our last moments in Cape Verde with our guide. Then we headed to the airport. Late morning, international flight from São Vicente to Paris . Arrival in Paris late in the evening.